Ma Maison

Ma Maison during the 1970s and early 80s was the epicenter of Hollywood’s power-dining scene and a defining symbol of that era’s celebrity culture. Agents, producers, directors, and stars conducted deals over long lunches and late-night dinners. It was truly a social institution  

When Patrick Terrail opened the celebrity drenched eatery in 1973 at 8477 Melrose, he struck gold by hiring an unknown chef named Wolfgang Puck, who eventually became its head chef and eventual part owner. 

Puck was the first to present a smoked salmon pizza and made goat cheese & basil very popular on the west coast. Wolfgang even taught cooking classes in the little structure across the parking lot called Ma Cuisine. 

Jackie Collins wrote about Ma Maison in her steamy novels and Rona Barrett was always referencing Ma Maison in her Hollywood gossip magazine. 

Jackie Collins during Jackie Collins' "Hollywood Wives" Book Party - August 5, 1983.   Getty Images 

Sue Mengers and editor Jann Wenner sighted at Ma Maison on January 30, 1981 

Luminaries and cultural icons not only lit up the dining room, but artists such as David Hockey and Andy Warhol contributed to the menu by creating its cover art. There was a famous graphics studio nearby owned by Sid Felsen, so they could change the cover menus about six times a year.

   David Hockney menu 

It was a favorite hangout spot for celebrities regulars such as Shelly Winters, Peter Bognanovich, Suzanne Pleshette, Warren Beatty, Diane Keaton, Mick Jagger, Peter Falk, O.J. Simpson, Elton John, Anjelica Huston, Jack Nicholson, (who often held court on the patio), Jack Lemmon, (who was usually seen at the bar by 11am), and Orson Welles (who sat in the back room - usually alone). 

Shelly Winters 

It was always a big deal where you sat. It was designed as a series of small rooms and garden patios rather than one big dining space, giving it a private, club-like feel.

Orson Welles and Patrick Terrail 

Patrick Terrail and Susan Somers 

Actress Zsa Zsa Gabor attends American Civil Liberties Union Tribute to Songssmith's Luncheon on March 25, 1980 at Ma Maison - Getty images 

Ma Maison was consistently jumping and French liquor company, Ricard graced the yellow umbrellas. Terrail made all the design decisions. When it first opened he went to the Universal Sheraton asking if they had any furniture they wanted to get rid of an d for the patio he took cast-off folding chairs made out of wood from party rentals. 

Ma Maison was so exclusive it had an unlisted phone number and driving by was always a show. The front parking lot was always very busy with famous people, high energy and an epic line up of Rills Royces. 

Rod Stewart and Alana Hamilton Sighting at Ma Maison Restaurant - March 27, 1979

 

David Bowie held an after party at Ma Maison after his concert at the Forum in 1978 that included Bette Midler, Tom Waits, Toni Basil, Jacqueline Bisset. 

‘Grease’ film producer, Alan Carr with his Rolls-Royce outside Ma Mason in 1980

Married couple, film director John Cassavetes and actor Gena Rowlands sighted at Ma Maison Restaurant, Beverly Hills, California, January 15, 1981. (Getty Images)

Wolfgang Puck at the original Spargo in West Hollywood 

But in 1981, Puck left to open his celebrity-studded Spago. Ma Maison lost clientele after his departure, but the situation got much worse when sous chef John Sweeney was arrested for strangling his girlfriend, actress Dominique Dunne to death in 1982. A terrible tragedy and Sweeny didn’t serve enough time in prison. 

Ma Maison opened for a 2nd spin at the Sofitel on Beverly and La Cienega for about seven years. 

Alison Martino is a writer, television producer, and pop culture historian. She founded the Facebook page Vintage Los Angeles in 2010. Alison muses on L.A’s. past and present on Twitter and Instagram