The Fish Shanty and old Kooky World of La Cienega

VINTAGE LOS ANGELES: FISH SHANTY AND THE KOOKY WONDERLAND THAT WAS RESTAURANT ROW

La Cienega and Beverly Boulevard used to be a playful pocket of themed eateries, amusement parks, and nightclubs

By Alison Martino

Established in 1950 by the Smith Bros., the Fish Shanty was classic West Coast kitsch. Located at the intersection of La Cienega Boulevard and Burton Way, it was known to Angelenos as "the restaurant that swallowed you whole,” and nothing thrilled me more as a child than walking through the jaws of the Shanty’s whale façade or hiding under his fin, which was made out of thousands of tiny, ocean-blue, midcentury mosaic tiles that sparkled during sundown like the crest of an effervescent wave. (It will be forever preserved on film after being used as the entrance to a British club in the 1965 black comedy, The Loved One.)

Photographs of the La Cienega Smith Bros. Fish Shanty restaurant interior. Handwritten descriptions by Birdie Smith in the Margin.

The kitchen served reasonably priced seafood in a nautical atmosphere that included a ship’s wheel, lavender leather booths, and an aquarium with turtles in the entryway. It was the first time I ever tried clam chowder and sand dabs, and I specifically remember ordering Shirley Temples with extra cherries. (I still have a couple of the plastic mermaids that the waiters stuck on the rim of my glass.) Believe it or not, this area of Los Angeles was once a playful pocket of themed restaurants, amusement parks, and nightclubs surrounded by an amazing landscape of kooky architecture. The fish shack was conveniently located across the street from a disco in the shape of a giant claw called Osko’s and down the road from several beloved cartoonish destinations, like Beverly Park and Ponyland. (Yes, you could actually ride a ferris wheel or jump on a pony where the Beverly Center is today.) Other nearby eateries included Tail o’ the Pup, the Islander, Alan Hale’s Lobster Barrel, and The Velvet Turtle. How appropriate! 

                  Osko's (screen grab from "Thank God It's Friday")

Beverly Park, also known as Ponyland was a magical wonderland. Tragically it was torn down for the Beverly Center. Ponyland was next door. Both places were extremely popular for divorced fathers and birthday parties.

Even though this may appear to just be a photo of a bus, look closer...there's a Ferris wheel on the right!  Hard to believe there was an amusement park right here in the middle of Los Angeles from 1945 - 1974. (It actually inspired Walt to build Disneyland!)

Also seen in this pic is the corner of Smokey Joe's Cafe, Standard Shoes, (anyone remember the giant shoe inside??) and a place that looks like a Levy's store. I also can't believe I'm seeing an actual image of the patio furniture store that my parents bought all their outdoor decor from. So many childhood memories seen here. 

All of this was ripped to shreds in the 70s. The Beverly Center is now located on this sacred soil.

Yes there really was a Ferris Wheel in the middle of West Hollywood! This used to be where the Beverly Center is now. Did we really trade in an amusement park for a gigantic mall that covers an entire block and obscures the sky?

"Kiddieland" located on Beverly Blvd and "Ponyland" located next door. 

The Fish Shanty fit in perfectly with these whimsical landmarks and blended right into so-called Restaurant Row on La Cienega, a section of trendy restaurants such as the original Lawry’s, Ollie Hammond’s, and Tail o’ the Cock. Most of these places are now just memories that helped shape my youth, and the Shanty was the captain that anchored them.

 "Tail 'O the Pup" located on north west corner of La Cienega and Beverly Blvd. Recently brought back as a food truck and lacks everything that was once whimsical and magical. 

Kiddieland and Smokey Joe's Cafe. Corner of La Cienega and Beverly Blvd.

       

 "The Islander" located on La Cienega between Beverly Blvd and Melrose Ave.

 

                                                 

Actor, Alan Hale had his own place called "Lobster Barrel" and Charo's husband also owned a Kitchy Mexican styled restaurant near by called,  "Casa Cugat" located at the celebrity end of La Cienega's restaurant row.

The Original Lawry's when it was located on the west side of the street. This structure is now the Stinkin' Rose

The The Captain’s Table located above Melose on La Cienega next to Casa Cugat. Xavier always used his wife Pia in the advertisements.  The Captain’s Table had a glorious history as one of the city’s best places to eat fish.

"The Roaring 20's" located next to "The Gay 90s" on restaurant row.

 I want to go back in time and work there and wear one of those saucy outfits!

Rare footage of "The Roaring 20s" Restaurant on La Cienega

"The Gay 90s: The Richest Bar in the West". 157 North La Cienega also known as Restaurant Row in Beverly Hills, Cailf OL-7-1890.

 Postcard read: 

"A Saloon Created For The Carriage Trade. Professors of the Piano. Beauteous Genteel Feminine Cupbearers. Gleaming Fire Pole. Amazing Hanging Oil Paintings. Luxurious, Salubrious, Pulchritudinous. Home of the Biggest Drink in the West." The Gay 90s was apparently created by Paul Cummins of Huddle Restaurant fame and famous for 5¢ sandwiches. Not that it was tacky, or anything…

The Gay 90's just south of Burton Way on Restaurant Row

Bench advertisement for The Gay 90s on La Cienega 1966

157 North La Cienega, on Restaurant Row / Then and now.
Probably the best preserved relic on restaurant row. I bet nobody ever knew what it was!

I love this photo of the Fish Shanty.  Notice the Norms add on the bench!

      Alan Hale's, Lobster Barrel!

                 "The Velvet Turtle" not too far from La Cienega

And who could forget playing in that gigantic boot inside Standard Shoes just a few blocks away?

I always felt, growing up, that this was the way certain stores should be -- lively and fun. I look back fondly on the Judy's and the Joseph Magnins...and of course, Standard Shoes. Designed by Deborah Sussman. 

And back to the Fish Shanty!

Restaurant Row

Tail o' the Cock located at 477 South La Cienega. The Tail o' Pup      was a play on this popular joint. They put up a sleigh on the roof        every December. The owner lived in a house just behind it.

Kodachrome slide courtesy of Carol Watson

"Caves Des Roy." In 1959.  Among the founders were Conrad Hilton, Paul Newman, Desi Arnaz, Danny Thomas, Anthony Quinn and Tony Curtis. Demolished in 2014

Even Rexall Drugs on the corner of La Cienega and Beverly Blvd was magical. Today this is a CVS

And during the 1950s and 60s you had La Cienega Lanes for blowing at the corner of la Cienega and Santa Monica. It later became Flippers Roller Boogie in the 1970s and early 1980s.  

The "Melting Pot" on the corner of Melrose and La Cienega 

Norms on La Cienega Blvd. in West Hollywood: The oldest surviving Norms opened in 1957, and was recently declared a L.A. Historic-Cultural Monument.  This is one of the only structures still standing from this era. A perfect example of Googie architecture. 

Jeno Paulucci pulling Stan Freberg down La Cienega Boulevard in 1960.  Norms can be seen in the background. 

The Millionaires Club in 1963 on La Cienega and Burton way. Better know as Oskos. 

The Millionaires Club in 1963 on La Cienega and Burton way. Better know as Oskos. 

Kodachrome slide courtesy of Carol Watson

1520 A.D. Club in the 1960's. This club had many transformations such as The Gaslight, Climax II and Osko's.

Climax II and the Captain's Table located at La Cienega and San Vicente in 1969. (later this structure would be painted white and become Osko's).  Painted by Victor Henderson, Terry Schoonhoven, Leonard Koren and Jim Frazin. Painted over in 1972. In the 1980s these structures were demolished to build a retail strip mall that included the new Loehmann's location (that moved from 3rd street). It has also recently been demolished Rick Caruso's latest development.

Osko's in "Thank God It's Friday".

Disco Dancing at Osko's

Portions of this story were published in Los Angeles Magazine. 

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Alison Martino is a writer, television producer and personality, and L.A. pop culture historian. She founded the Facebook page Vintage Los Angeles in 2010. In addition to CityThink and VLA, Martino muses on L.A’s. past and present on Twitter and Instagram.

Alison is also currently a columnist for Los Angeles Magazine.